Aportes Afro a la Culinaria Dominicana

AFRODESCENDIENTES

Gracias a las manos africanas

SON INCUESTIONABLES LOS RASGOS DOMINANTES DE ORIGEN AFRO EN LA DIETA ALIMENTICIA DOMINICANA

Indhira Suero
indhira.suero@listindiario.com

Santo Domingo

Es el 1550 en la isla de Santo Domingo y en la cocina de los amos la esclava prepara la comida del mediodía. Toma la cebolla, la pica en finas rodajas (con una técnica que impresionaría al mejor chef de la actualidad) la echa en la olla y la pone a sofreír. En un recipiente prepara el escabeche y por último echa los ‘guandules’. Al hacerlo la nostalgia la invade, recuerda cuando era libre y alimentaba a sus hijos con este grano, pero el olor de la cebolla frita la trae a la realidad y con rapidez echa todo a la ‘paila’ que tapa para que coja sazón.

Aunque la esclava perdió su libertad, al ser trasladada a la isla en un buque negrero, lo que no sabe es que su capacidad inventiva aportaría sabor, olor y color a la comida de una nación que surgiría siglos después: República Dominicana.

Uno de los mayores aportes de los africanos a la cultura dominicana es el de la gastronomía. De acuerdo al libro “Gastronomía Dominicana: Historia del sabor criollo”, autoría de Hugo Tolentino Dipp y Marcio Veloz Maggiolo, esta etnia formó un papel determinante en el proceso creador de la cocina de Santo Domingo.

Entre sabores
Como parte de la aculturación, la cocinera de origen africano se encargó de reconciliar y conjugar los distintos paladares, al multiplicar sabores y arriesgar especias, en “actitud oficiante de alquimia, magia , arte y ciencia”.

La historiadora Celsa Albert , en su libro “Mujer y esclavitud en Santo Domingo”, afirma que la mujer reconoce en América alimentos que le son familiares, unos de origen africano y otros asiáticos. “Esta dinámica cultural , donde la mujer de origen africano juega un papel fundamental, va a ser transmitida como referencia a la mujer negra criolla y a la mulata”.

Para el chef Arturo Féliz, propietario del blog elfogoncito.net, la gastronomía criolla es una mezcla de influencias que se unen para dar un resultado único. “Con frecuencia nos referimos a los aportes hispanos y tainos e ignoramos la influencia africana que está muy presente en el diario vivir. Nosotros que disfrutamos de todo género de “cuajadas”, que usamos los sueros de leche y que tanto disfrutamos de los ‘víveres’ ignoramos que estas son evidentes influencias africanas”.

Para Hugo Toletino Dipp, de los productos comestibles en el envoltorio clandestino solo llegaron a la isla el maní congo, granos de ‘guandules’ y de ‘funde’ (semilla de color blanco que se consumía bastante en la capital dominicana), porque en las condiciones en que se transportaba a los esclavos en los buques negreros les era imposible cargar con otra cosa que no fueran semillas. La gallina de guinea, el plátano, la malagueta y otros productos llegaron por otras vías.

Féliz asegura que en el Oeste de África es donde se encuentran más similitudes debido a que es fácil mirar un plato de comida de esa región y creer que se está frente a un plato dominicano.

“El chenchén encuentran sus posibles ancestros en el “sadza” y el “nshima”. Los pasteles en hoja, tan “dominicanos” encuentran en el “kenkey” un familiar y hasta los bollitos de los sancochos tienen parientes como el “banku”. Además el sancocho, que se atribuye a la herencia hispana, también tiene sus versiones en el oeste africano”.

Uno de los aspectos más importantes en los platos criollos es el sabor que otorgan los condimentos. La canela, la menta, el clavo dulce y la malagueta, compañera de caldos y sopas, son para Féliz , expresiones de una amplía y bella influencia culinaria africana.

Las inmigraciones
El sociólogo José Marcano en su ensayo “La cocina dominicana: características, desarrollo y diferenciación”, destaca la importancia de estudiar la gastronomía dominicana entre regiones cañeras y no cañeras debido a que los lugares donde se establecieron los ingenios es donde ha ocurrido la mayor inmigración de los últimos siglos, lo que crea una rica mezcla de culturas. Aparte de los dominicanos venidos de otras provincias, los inmigrantes vinieron de Haití y de las Antillas Menores.

En el caso de los “cocolos”, que provenían de las Antillas Menores y de colonias, los aportes que hicieron a la comida dominicana fueron enormes aunque no solo influyeron en las regiones cañeras también contribuyeron a la gastronomía de regiones no cañeras, como es el caso de Puerto Plata.

De acuerdo a Orlando Inoa, en el libro “Los cocolos en la sociedad dominicana”, elementos de esta culinaria son el molondrón , el pescado, la yautía blanca, la miel de abeja y el buen pan. Sus mayores aportes son las variedades del domplin, el “Johnny Cake”, el conconete, el mabí cocolo, el fungí, el lambi y el uso del bacalao y los sazones con coco, bija y limón.

Un plato menos conocido por los dominicanos es el “calalú” definido como un plato de origen africano que es parecido al sancocho, aunque en vez de ‘prieto’ sea un sancocho verde.

Otro de los aportes cocolos es el “guavaberry”elaborado con el fruto del arrayán. Estos maduran a finales del otoño y por eso se asocia el licor guavaberry con la Navidad. Además con los inmigrantes de las Antilas vienen dulces como el “cocunut drop” o conconete, el “corn muffin” y el “ginger bread”.

En Samaná las influencias de los negros libertos americanos dio como fruto el pescado y el moro de guandules con coco. Soraya Aracena en su texto “Los inmigrantes norteamericanos en Samaná” expresa que esta gastronomía con el paso de los años se ha incorporado a la dieta de este pueblo y ya no es exclusiva de este grupo étnico.

Opiniones
Sobre la gastronomía, el sociólogo Dagoberto Tejeda manifiesta que la mayoría de los dominicanos no saben que cuando comen un pastel en hoja o un “mofongo” participan de la herencia afrodescendiente. Además destaca que las frituras, de gran aceptación entre la población, las hicieron los mulatos. Para Tejeda el problema no es quien lo trajo, ni quien lo hizo sino quien se adueñó y quien la popularizó.

“Este aporte africano es el que más presencia tiene, porque la música se baila de vez en cuando, pero la gastronomía no, hay que comer todos los días”, menciona Tejeda.

Al igual que Tejeda, Celsa Albert enfatiza la importancia de este proceso de integración y de sincretismo el cual, mediante la comida, se ve desde el desayuno hasta la cena.

“La comida que comemos es del esclavo que se liberó. Un ejemplo es el ñame, muy importante para África, allá tienen la feria del ñame e incluso se premia al que cultive el más grande. La mayoría de los productos que consumimos son de origen asiático, de la dieta alimentaria africana. Cosas así nadie las sabe y eso denota la ignorancia en estos temas”, puntualiza Albert.

La gastronomía, al igual que otros aportes afrodescendientes, no ha sido reconocida por los dominicanos. En un artículo del Diario Libre de febrero de 2009, el sociólogo José del Castillo Pichardo escribió que aunque los dominicanos cuentan hoy con una rica y multifacética cultura culinaria, derivada de un pasado de aportes, fusión e influencias de diversos grupos étnicos, el esfuerzo nacional para destacar esta condición ha sido limitado. Ya como forma deliciosa de conocer nuestra historia y afianzar sus valores tradicionales, rindiendo culto a la máxima que reza: “dime lo que comes y te diré quién eres”.

APORTES DESDE LA MADRE ÁFRICA
Celsa Albert menciona una lista de alimentos muy cercanos a la cultura “afro”: La preferencia por el arroz blanco costumbre del área de (Guinea en África, aunque también se hace compuesto, es decir, con colores y canes).

El uso cotidiano de carne y manteca de cerdo. La Guinea en los últimos años se ha convertido en un componente poco frecuente, debido a su extinción.

El uso de la salsa ata de origen nigeriano, similar al escabeche. En África se usa para echar por encima a los alimentos. Igual uso se da en Quisqueya.

El plátano, de origen asiático, común en África, donde se come con frecuencia frito o hervido. Además el utensilio utilizado para macerarlo es el pilón de origen africano.

Es de común uno en África el bollo, preparado de harina o plátano en forma de masa, adicionándole condimentos como ajíes y friéndolo en grasa, en Nigeria se le llama “akara”.

Concón: En Nigeria, África y en República Dominicana lleva el mismo nombre y es el mismo plato, la diferencia es en Nigeria se escribe con k (konkón).

El guandul : su origen se encuentra en el norte de África Oriental o en la India; la palabra proviene del vocablo kikongo “wandu”.

http://www.listindiario.com.do/ventana/2011/8/26/201259/Gracias-a-las-manos-africanas

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